Q: What is it? A: No-nonsense Edomae sushi in Stockholm, served in a minimal place, tucked away on a side street. And there’s no other way to describe it than ”simply, totally, completely fantastic”.
Lightly grilled cod. Carl will let his hand-held chef’s torch have a quick encounter with the fish and then there will be a little yuzu on top and then… it’s yours!
Norwegian salmon farmed the KRAV-way (according to organic standards – mainly affecting the fish-food and the lack of synthetic colors). Proof that the biggest surprises at Sushi Sho have been the less exotic servings. A more careful sourcing of ingredients, paired with the skills in the kitchen, makes the ordinary taste extraordinary.
Seabream. Hadn’t heard about this particular fish before dining at Sushi Sho. I thought. But a quick search showed that seabream is an alternate name for dourade or, more commonly; snapper. To restore order I’ll use the latin name Sparus aurata. An ugly little f-cker it is. And delicious.
Common whelk. In Swedish its name translates to French horn seashell. That’s nothing but mollusk poetry. Has a very particular texture that surprised me at first but that was easy to love.
The harasu – the belly of Salmo salar – is the fattest region of said fish which means that it is harnessing flavors like no other part. This one also fell victim to the hand-held torch and… I don’t know how to explain its awesomeness.
The uni. More commonly referred to as sea urchin. Historically, this has never been one of my favorites, but the chefs at Sushi Sho have been successful in making me a big fan.
Roe of salmon topped with a quail egg. This is something of a watershed. The salty roe proposes to the light yolk of that tiny egg and in theory they should be happily married. This course is normally the 2nd last serving. Perhaps it should be one of the three first?
Karl creating a nigiri selection, which is something I have actually never ordered. The omakase is, and will likely always be, my choice. The donburi, made with 7-bone steak, is also a great pick – this is what Japanese comfort food is supposed to be like.
A love affair and nothing else.
The chance for you just passing it by accident is approximately zero. This is Upplandsgatan, a semi-centrally located, mainly residential side street; one of those that make people go ”Oh, where’s that one?” This hole-in-the-wall is a tiny food-temple with room for some 15-16 guests. To be more precise it’s a sushi-temple, dedicated to the Edomae style. I have zero problems dubbing this the best (and most pure) sushi experience in Sweden.
The magic word is omakase.
It’s a guided tour through the different choices the chef has made. And it’s low-key and gentle and awesome. A quiet ”halibut” from Carl Ishizaki will tell you what was placed on a piece black slate only seconds ago. A revue of say… flounder, walleye, pulpo and scallops will pass. It varies with season and catch. You will marvel at the more ‘ordinary’ types of fish, like salmon, char and mackerel as they will exceed any expectations every time. Those are what other chefs are abusing at the too many, too mediocre sushi joints in Stockholm.
They serve other things as well…
Their donburi, a bowl of rice with a mixed selection of fish and shellfish served with roe, shiso and onsen tamago (and egg tempered to 64° Celcious) is marvellous. Their choice of sake has made me a convert (just order the Dewazakura Ichiro and you’ll understand). Their selection of wine is not large but carefully curated and needless to say it is the unknown sister of their amazing food (no, you don’t need to stick to beer when dining here).
When things come to and end.
Every time I’ve had the omakase I’ve felt a certain sadness when Carl has been reporting: ”And that was the last serving”. I always wonder how it could be over so fast. But the price tag of the omakase is so low that there’s always a next time. And it will be soon. For me it’s mandatory to quietly plan my next visit when leaving Sushi Sho. Not many restaurants have had that effect on me. Five stars. Proudly flying the flag of the Tokyo Prefecture.
Sushi Sho
Upplandsgatan 45
113 28 Stockholm
+46-8-30 30 30
Opening hours:
Tuesday to Friday: 5 PM – 9 PM
Saturday: 1 PM – 9 PM
Additional note: This is a very small restaurant. Bookings are essential! Available
slots at the bar (which is the place to book for omakase) are 5 PM, 6.30 PM and 8 PM.
